Decisions, decisions. From deep red to greyish white, janka hardness of 1360 to 2820, there’s lots to consider when selecting flooring. Are you willing to sacrifice harness for aesthetics? What color fits into your decorating scheme?

Each type of wood offers unique virtues, and its own challenges. We’ve outlined the major pros and cons of our top wood flooring products below.

Ipe Flooring

Pros: As one of the hardest woods on the market, Ipe stands up to even the heaviest wear and tear. From spills to heavy foot traffic, ipe stays intact. With a dark reddish hue, this wood lends a sophisticated, warm look. 

Cons: In dry climates, Ipe will crack and splinter. In many cases it doesn’t have the uniform coloring that you might expect from other woods, and it doesn’t take finish easily. If you’re looking for a smooth, monotone floor, ipe might not be your best bet.

Douglas Fir Flooring

Pros: With straight grain and uniform coloring, Douglas Fir flooring is even and smooth. What’re more, it doesn’t fall victim to warping easily and is suitable for almost any climate. Its lighter coloring also achieves a classic look that looks great with lighter decorating palletes.

Cons: Douglas Fir is a relatively soft wood, so it’s susceptible to nicks and dents.

Jatoba Flooring

Pros: Jatoba is a very hard wood, so it will resist nicks and scratches with ease. It’s known for its unique rich, red color.

Cons: Because Jatoba hails from Brazil, it can be trickier to obtain sustainably. The price-point is a little bit higher than other options. The hardness, distinctive grain, and unique coloring makes it a bit more difficult to sand or stain, as well.

Oak Flooring

Pros: Thanks to its distinctive, wavy grain, you can spot oak flooring from a mile away. It’s durable and withstands everything from scratches to warping.

Cons: For some, the bold grain is a drawback. It’s difficult to stain the wood consistently due to the two-tone coloring, so its opportunity for customization is limited.

Camaru Flooring

Pros: Also known as Brazilian teak, Cumaru flooring is incredibly durable. It’s one of the hardest woods on the market, so you can count on it to resist rotting, warping, and the effects of rambunctious pets and kids alike.

Cons: Its virtues also present some installation challenges. Thanks to the hardy nature of this material, it’s incredibly difficult to manipulate. Most Cumaru has to be pre-drilled before installing.

Need a helping hand in your flooring decision? Let us know your building situation, we’d be happy to help. As always, we encourage you to purchase FSC certified products, they ensure that you’re getting a great quality product and supporting the ethical harvest of wood materials.

Where does jatoba wood come from?
Often nicknamed “Brazilian cherry,” jatoba is primarily found in South American forests. We advocate purchasing FSC certified flooring to ensure that your materials were harvested sustainably, responsibly, and safely.

What does it look like?
Jatoba has a rich, subtle complexity that you don’t find in many other woods. The vibrant orange-brown hue adds warmth in any space. Its color is a perfect decorative middle ground: vivid and warm without being too dark. Jatoba also has a unique grain that makes each board look like a one-of-a-kind asset.

What kind of projects is it good for?
With a Janka hardness rating of 2350, Jatoba is one of the hardest wood flooring options on the market. Due to its strength, it’s often used in high-traffic areas. People use jatoba flooring for projects such as:

• House interiors, especially in high-traffic areas like entryways
• Commercial spaces like restaurants
• Jatoba outdoor decking and pool decks
• Office spaces for a comfortable and attractive, yet long-lasting interior

FSC-certified jatoba is an ideal option if you’re looking for durable wood flooring that complements the design of your home. Its captivating color and unparalleled strength fortify your home both aesthetically and structurally.

The team at AltruWood can help you to select the wood flooring that you’ll have in your home for years to come. You can browse our selection of FSC wood products, reclaimed wood, beams, and more at our site. Reach out to us if you have any questions about our products or would like a quote.

The Janka wood hardness scale was developed to establish woods’ ability to resist denting and wear. The scale measures the amount of force, in pounds/inches², required to embed half the diameter of a .444-inch steel ball into the wood surface. This is the best way to determine whether the wood in question is a good fit for your flooring project.

There is a huge variety in the Janka hardness scale. Balsa, the softest wood, taps in at just 100. Lignumvitae is the hardest and comes armed with a 4,500 rating.

Both ends of the spectrum come with their own challenges; softwoods simply won’t last, whereas hard ones can be virtually impossible to cut, nail, and install.

Recently, tropical wood flooring has taken the center stage thanks to its generally high Janka rating and unique grain and color variations. Brazilian teak, also called cumaru, has a Janka rating of 3,540. Due to its hardness, cumaru flooring is a popular choice for builders. Jatoba flooring boasts a rating of 2,350, making it another strong candidate for high-impact areas. As with any type of wood, it’s important to make sure that you purchase FSC-certified tropical flooring to ensure that it was harvested responsibly.

Before you delve into your next building or home improvement project, speak with your flooring experts at AltruWood to determine what type of wood is best for you. We’ll help you balance your needs with the Janka scale to find a solution that is durable, beautiful, and sustainable!

Pro: Durability
Tigerwood is an investment. It’s remarkably resilient which makes it less susceptible to the nicks and scratches that might affect other lumber. The proof is in the Janka Hardness Rating: Coming in strong at 1,850, this is a hardwood that you can trust to withstand the rigors of daily life.

Pro: Breathtaking Visual Appeal
If you opt for Tigerwood flooring, you should know your floor will quickly steal the show. Offering rich coloring, a bold grain pattern, and stripes that mirror its namesake, Tigerwood’s dynamic look commands attention.

Con / Pro: Harvesting Methods
Tigerwood is harvested from a selection of tree species found in Africa and South America. While the resulting lumber is lovely, it can come at a devastating environmental cost. To avoid unsustainably harvested materials, purchase Tigerwood that is FSC-certified.

Con: Color Changes
Over time, the coloring of your Tigerwood flooring will shift slightly. This is true of most robustly toned hardwoods. Although the hues will remain beautiful, homeowners seeking fixed colors would do better to select fir floors for their space.

AltruWood is proud to offer our customers beautiful, sustainable Tigerwood flooring. Make a big impression without the environmental impact and explore our FSC-certified options today.

At AltruWood, we believe that one of the best ways to enjoy the beautiful weather is right in your own backyard. Eco friendly building materials make it possible to construct an outdoor space that will be the location of good memories for years to come. There are numerous different backyard deck ideas, and the beauty of a custom design is that it can completely reflect your tailored needs.

Seamlessly integrate your new deck with the rest of your home by selecting suitable and sustainable construction materials. Make sure to select lumber that has been certified by the Forest Stewardship Council, which ensures that the wood was harvested responsibly.

FSC® Certified Western Red Cedar Decking can be stained to align with a clean-cut modern aesthetic or a cozy, rustic style. For a natural look, simply seal the material with a clear coat to shield it from the elements. Different stains create distinctive appearances that can align with any architectural style.

Finally, explore a few backyard deck designs before diving into the project. This addition is an investment, and as such, you want to ensure that it will last for years to come. FSC® Certified Ipe Decking is a popular choice thanks to its rugged durability. Ipe, also referred to as ironwood, holds the same fire rating as steel or concrete, meaning that it is incredibly hardwearing and resistant to insect activity.

Whether you need help selecting sustainable materials or are ready to dive into your project, the AltruWood team is always on hand to provide assistance! Visit us today and create your outdoor oasis.

The good news is there are things you can do to avoid finish failure.  Here are some tips from your friends at AltruWood that can help you avoid some of the most common wood floor finish mistakes:

Inadequate Mixing

When you have a large area to coat with finish, you may require more than one gallon. The problem with using more than one container of finish is that each one may vary slightly from the next. Maybe one can was made in a different batch than another, or was left sitting on the store shelf longer. (Another tip: read the fine print on your cans of finish, and don’t use finish that is past its expiration date) Whatever the reason, sheen levels can vary from gallon to gallon. To avoid a floor that’s shinier on one side than the other, get a big tub and mix together all the stain you’re going to use before you start the job. This mitigates any tiny differences in sheen that might be present.

When you’re doing your mixing, be sure to do it thoroughly. Certain components of the finish called matting agents can settle toward the bottom of the container, resulting in an uneven finish when you get to the bottom of the barrel.

No exit strategy

Have you ever mopped yourself into a corner of your kitchen? It’s a frustrating moment, when you look out over your just-mopped floors and realize you’re going to have to walk all over them in order to leave the room. Now, imagine that feeling and multiply it times 100 when you do the same thing while finishing a floor.

It’s important to plan exactly how you’re going to apply the finish to your floor before you spring into action. Choose small, manageable areas and only tackle as much as you can handle. Make sure you have a way to back yourself out of the room as you apply finish across the entire floor. If you have to, start by taping off an exit area and applying finish there first. Then, go across to the other side of the room and begin from the opposite end. As long as you have a large enough room, by the time you get back to the exit area, you can walk on the already-coated portion.

An Uncontrolled Environment

Even if you’ve done a beautiful job of applying the finish, sometimes external factors can affect the finish you’ve just laid down.

As much as possible, control the air flow in the room where you’re applying finish to wood floors. You want it to be still and serene, so rogue air currents don’t cause streaks or uneven spots. Turn off your HVAC system before you begin, and if you’re working in a kitchen, unplug the breaker to the refrigerator so the fan under the fridge doesn’t affect your work.

Watch out for the sun, too. Direct sunlight can create hot spots on the floor, causing the finish to blister. To avoid this, you have a couple of options. You can try covering the windows with clear plastic, which lets in light but cuts down on heat. You can also arrange to do your work during early morning or evening, when there’s no direct sunlight streaming in.

These are just a few of the ways you can avoid problems and achieve the perfectly-finished wood floors you had in mind. For a more detailed explanation of these and other wood floor finish mistakes, check out HardWood Floors Mag, the magazine of the National Wood Flooring Association.

And don’t forget the most important part of installing beautiful hardwood floors is buying high-quality flooring in the first place. Even the greatest finish job can’t make up for an inferior flooring product underneath.

At AltruWood, you can count on flooring that has been inspected, graded, and is sure to be free of defects. Whether you’re looking for an exotic wood like Ipe, a Northwest classic like Douglas Fir, or reclaimed flooring like Antique Oak, Contact us today, and we’ll help you find a floor that’s worthy of that great finish you’re now ready to put on.

What is engineered wood flooring?

Engineered wood is a flooring product made up of several different layers. The core of the flooring is made up of plywood (which can vary in composition and quality, depending on the manufacturer). The top surface, which is what you’ll see once it’s installed, is a “wear layer” that is made of real wood that’s been sliced very thin and adhered to the plywood core.

Engineered flooring differs from traditional wood flooring, which is made up of a single plank of wood, sawn from the same tree, and solid all the way through.

Where can I install engineered wood flooring?

Because engineered wood is made up of different components instead of a solid piece, it responds differently to moisture than traditional wood flooring. Some engineered wood flooring is quite good at handling humidity, making it ideal for installation in basements or in other areas where solid wood flooring would be a challenge.

However, every manufacturer’s requirement for the recommended humidity range is different. According to Hardwood Floors Magazine, the official publication of the National Wood Flooring Association, the recommended humidity range for most engineered wood floors is between 35-55 percent relative humidity. This can cause problems in arid areas like the Southwest, or places with extreme temperature swings like the Midwest. Check your manufacturer’s guidelines before you install engineered wood flooring.

What’s the process for installing engineered wood flooring?

There are many different types of engineered wood flooring, along with numerous methods of installation. Some of the most popular styles include:

• Floating: with this style, the wood flooring “floats” above the subfloor instead of being nailed or glued down.
• Click-Lock: different manufacturers offer different styles of “click-lock” flooring, in which individual pieces are fitted together with a special tongue-and-groove system.
• Glue-down: with this method, engineered wood flooring is glued directly to the subfloor using a special adhesive.
• Nail/Staple Down: this is the most similar to solid hardwood flooring installation. With this method, engineered wood flooring is fastened to the subfloor using nails or staples.

Check what you’re buying before you begin installation, and make sure you understand the process.

Do I have to finish engineered wood flooring?

Many manufacturers sell pre-finished engineered wood flooring; others offer flooring that you can finish yourself.

Can I sand or refinish engineered wood flooring?

That depends on what you buy. The wear layer of your engineered wood flooring varies in thickness from manufacturer to manufacturer. Remember that if you sand down too far or too many times, you’ll expose the plywood core. Check the depth of your wear layer before you refinish it. If you anticipate a lot of wear and tear on your floor, make sure you buy something that can stand a refinishing job or two.

The bottom line: there’s a lot of variation in the engineered wood flooring market. Investigate each product thoroughly and make sure that what you purchase is suited for your home and your lifestyle. Contact Altruwood if you have any questions!

As you prepare for the task of installation, you probably have questions about what to expect. Here are answers to some of the most common wood floor installation questions we receive:

Q: Where can you install solid wood floors?

A: You can install solid wood floors in almost any room, as long as you follow a few guidelines. We don’t recommend installing wood floors in rooms that are below ground level, as the risk of moisture damage is too high. Other than that, we believe wood floors are a lovely and durable choice for any room in your home!

You may have heard that wood floors should not be installed in “wet” rooms like the kitchen or bathroom, but we respectfully disagree. As long as you take good care of it and mop up spills sooner rather than later, wood is a welcome change from linoleum or tile. Exotic hardwood like Ipe lends a serene, natural beauty to bathrooms, while reclaimed oak adds a warm, old-fashioned feeling to kitchens.

Q: What kind of subfloor do you need to install a solid wood floor?

A: We recommend a 1/4-inch thick plywood subfloor for installing solid wood floors. That doesn’t mean you should count yourself out if you have concrete subfloors in your home; you can glue down plywood over your concrete and then nail down your solid wood flooring over the plywood subfloor.

Q: How do I prepare for solid wood flooring installation?

A: First of all, prepare for a process that takes a week or more. Before your wood floor even arrives, you need to make sure that your subfloor is in good condition; use a level to make sure that there are no high or low spots, and sand accordingly if you discovery any. Walk around to check for loose spots or creaks, and then nail down any wiggly bits. Install a vapor barrier over your subfloor–this will keep moisture from wicking up from the ground and damaging your natural wood flooring.

When your wood flooring arrives, you need to spread it out in the room where it will be installed so that it can to acclimate before you can install it. This will take several days at least. It may be frustrating to wait now, but it will save you problems with boards warping later on. Acclimation time allows your wood, which is a natural, living product, time to adjust to the moisture level in your home.

Once all these steps are complete, then the installation can begin.

Q: How long will installing solid wood floors take?

A: That depends on a lot of factors. First, you have to prepare (see above) which takes several days. If you decide to install your wood flooring yourself, it may take longer than if you hire a team of professional installers. The National Wood Flooring Association estimates that a professional flooring crew can install 300 square feet of solid wood flooring per day, so your final time depends on the size of your room.

Staining, letting the stain dry, sealing, and letting the stain cure will take several days as well. Installing a solid wood floor will take at last a week, perhaps two or more, from start to finish.

Q: How long will my solid wood floor last?

A: Forever! Well, maybe not forever. But consider this: buildings that have been standing for 100 years or more are routinely dismantled because they are no longer useful in their current state. Guess what’s not worn out? Their wood floors! From old churches to old theaters to old gymnasiums, wood flooring is reclaimed and re-used every day. When you install solid wood flooring in your home, you are making an investment that will last for generations to come.

If you want help determining which type of solid wood floor would be best suited for your lifestyle, give us a call. At Altruwood, we call ourselves the wood experts because we truly enjoy talking about this stuff. Contact us today and we’ll guide you through the wood flooring installation process.

The best way to keep wood floors from warping in response to wet weather is to prevent damage before it starts: make sure your hardwood floors are installed correctly by allowing the flooring to acclimate to its new environment for several days before installation. Laying down a vapor barrier over the sub-floor is another important to step to keep moisture from the ground from finding its way up into your hardwood floors, especially in spaces that are sub-level (i.e. the basement).

Once installed, you can help keep your hardwood safe by limiting the amount of moisture and muck that gets tracked inside. Hardwood Floors Magazine recommends picking out some good rugs and placing them in the entryways. Take off your boots and especially high heels when you come inside—these can leave indentations in your floors. Keep pets’ nails trimmed, too—these can be a source for scratching and damage.

Moisture is the enemy of a hardwood floor. Leave dripping umbrellas or snowy boots on the porch or in a designated, non-leaky bin until they are dry. If you’ve tracked in puddles of water, wipe them up—the same goes for spills. If you’re careful about not leaving standing water on the floor, you shouldn’t see any problems.

Regular sweeping and vacuuming is important as well. When dirt, tiny particles of rock, or even de-icing agents like rock salt are tracked into the house, they can act like sandpaper underfoot, scratching your hardwood floors. Removing that grit is the best way to protect the floors.

Remember what we said before? Moisture is the enemy of a hardwood floor. That means you should never clean your floors with a wet mop. Instead, use a damp cloth, and clean with products that are recommended by the manufacturer of your floor’s finish. If you do need to clean an especially nasty spot with water, make sure you dry it well afterward.

If you don’t know what kind of finish you have, do a quick test in an inconspicuous spot. Let a few drops of water sit on the floor. If it beads up, it’s most likely a urethane finish (the most common type for newer floors). If the finish turns white after about 10 minutes, you probably have a wax finish, and should find a cleaner recommended for this type of flooring.

If you take a little reasonable care throughout the winter season, you can be sure that your hardwood floors will thank you for it. And when drier weather comes, they’ll be just as gorgeous as ever. Check back on our Blog often for more tips and hints from your wood flooring experts at Altruwood!

Keeping your wood flooring in great shape is easier than you think. Follow a few commonsense preventative guidelines, and your love for your wood floors will stay strong, long after the honeymoon is over.

1. Stop it at the door.

Your mother yelled it at you every time you came in when you were a child: “Wipe your feet on the mat!” She was a smart lady. Dirt and grit on wood floors can act like sandpaper, damaging the finish with fine scratches. This is easy to prevent, though. Just keep mats at every entrance, and remember to wipe your feet when you come in. Taking your shoes off when you enter is a good idea too—high heels can beat up floors just like tiny hammers banging into them, and boots or sneakers can get rocks trapped in the tread on their soles, scratching up your floors.

2. Think outside the entrance.

Doorways aren’t the only place where your wood flooring is susceptible to scratches. Put felt pads underneath the legs of your furniture so that it can smoothly glide across the surface of your floor, instead of denting and dinging it. Also consider protection in other high-traffic or scratch-likely places. A cushy carpet where your kids like to sit and play (little Barbie shoes and tiny Lego pieces can be sharp!) and a hearth rug in front of your fireplace or wood stove can prevent damage before it starts. Another common cause of scratches: pet nails. Keep your animal companions’ nails trimmed to avoid damage.

3. Keep it clean.

Even the most vigilant foot-wiping policy can’t prevent all dirt and dust from entering your home. Then, it becomes your job to remove it. To really keep your hardwood floors clean and looking great, sweep or dust-mop the floor at least once a week. Try using a mop that’s been treated with a dusting agent, or a disposable electrostatic cloth to easily get all the dust, pet hair, and grime that can accumulate. You can also vacuum, but don’t use a vacuum cleaner with a beater-bar attachment, as those can scratch the floor’s finish.

When it’s time for a deeper cleaning, you need to take into account what type of finish you have.

• Polyurethane finishes provide a solid, shiny coat that’s easy to clean. Just use a wood floor cleaning product to mop as needed.
• For a wax-finished floor, use a buffer to maintain shine when you need to. When the finish seems discolored or has dirt build up, use a combination cleaner and liquid wax that’s designed for wood floors and is safe for a wax finish. The National Wood Flooring Association recommends re-waxing once or twice a year.
• Damp mopping and wiping on a liquid cleaner is ok; wet mopping is not. Wood and water don’t mix—never leave standing water on your wood flooring. Steam mop products can be damaging as well.

Don’t know what kind of finish you have? Newer floors usually have some kind of urethane finish, while older floors that have never been re-coated might be waxed. If you’re not sure, pick out an inconspicuous place like a small patch of flooring in a closet test it: put a little mineral spirit on a white rag and rub your floor. If it turns brown, it’s probably wax. Another possible test is letting a drop or two of water sit on the floor. If the finish turns white after about 10 minutes, it’s most likely wax.

4.  Re-coat and re-finish

Even the best finish jobs will need to be re-done eventually. Exactly how often is a matter of the amount of traffic your home receives, along with your personal preference. Eventually, though, all floors will need a new finish to avoid long-term damage. When is it time? Pour a small spoonful of water on the floor. If it beads up and can be wiped off easily, your finish is still in good shape. If it soaks in a leaves a dark spot, there is nothing protecting the surface of your wood, and you are due for a new finish.

5. Embrace patina

There are a number of ways you can remove spots and stains when they happen, and even minor damage can often be fixed—check out the National Wood Flooring Association’s directions on repair for more detailed information.

However, if from time to time, there are dents and dings that you (gasp!) can’t easily remove. Instead of fretting, keep this word in mind: patina. That refers to the gradual acquiring of an aged, weathered surface, and it’s a beautiful thing. In fact, people will go so far as to scrape their floors with steel wool or beat them with chains (link to distressed wood blog) just to acquire the look of a time-tested patina.

So love your floors, keep them clean and well-maintained, and if there’s ever something you can’t prevent, just remember: embrace the patina.